I’ve been to Naples, Italy several times since my first trip in 2009. As the birthplace of pizza, Naples is an absolutely essential pilgrimage for someone like me. This trip was a quickie, centered around a judging position at the 22nd Annual Trofeo Caputo competition. I spent two days judging pizzas in the American division, so my precious non-judging time was limited. Still, I managed to visit 9 different pizzerias (I even hit one twice), 4 pastry shops, 3 gelato counters, a buffalo farm, a flour mill, and of course I stopped by some outstanding points of pizza interest. I’ll post about all the highlights over the next few weeks, but let’s start with a rundown of the pizzerias I visited on this adventure. (pic of the pizza is above each blurb)
The Pizzerias
L’antica Pizzeria da Michele – Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139
This is a Naples pizza classic. The Condurro family has been selling pizza since the late 18th century but this particular pizza business didn’t open until 1906. They moved to their current location in 1930 and have served as a temple of classic pizza ever since. You may have read about it or saw it in “Eat Pray Love,” but this place is more than just a film location. For years they only served pizza Margherita and pizza marinara, but now you can get a half-and-half or a pizza Cosacca (tomato and parmiggiano). They’re always super busy so you’ll have to take a number and wait your turn, but there’s a recent expansion in the building across the street. I’ve been to the original location a bunch of times but ate at the expansion on this trip. I recommend the marinara and asking for it to arrive uncut. This is an extremely thin pizza that doesn’t do well when sliced. Use your fork.
50 Kalo – P.za Sannazaro, 201/c, 80121
The pizza reaches beyond the simplicity of the old school spots, with more adventurous topping combinations. It’s a real local favorite but the pizza tourists have gotten hip to its existence. Dough is incredibly light and airy. The pizzas are all very good, the fried foods are excellent, and the pizza fritta is on another level. This is a fried calzone, which is a real delicacy in Naples. At 50 Kalo, they go above and beyond with its service. First they deflate the fried bubble of dough by poking some holes and pressing the shell onto the filling. Then they press evenly to spread the filling from end to end. Finally, they carve the pizza fritta into slices. It’s wonderful.
Masardona – Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio, 27, 80142
This was my first time to the famous fried pizza spot, which opened in 1945. They serve pizza fritta in two sizes. The large one is made from two doughs filled with whatever ingredients you want. The smaller size is a single dough folded around the fillings. I should have stuck with the smaller size but I went big because this was my first stop after I landed. I had a pizza with ricotta, ciccoli (pork), and smoked provola. It was light and easy to eat as I walked slowly toward my hotel on the other side of town.
Diego Vitagliano – Via Santa Lucia 78, 80132
Part of the new wave of Neapolitan pizza makers, Vitagliano is a place with modern style and classic dishes. I went with Nicole from Pizaro’s in Houston, TX, Alastair Hannmann the pizza consultant, and Justin & Andy from Cowabunga Pizza in Hamilton, ON. We ordered some fried items, a salad (which came on a bed of fried dough!), and a few pizzas. They were all very good, but I hear the real thing to get is the Montanara. I really need to go back again next time I’m in town.
Pizzeria Presepe Napoletano by Gino Sorbillo – Via dei Tribunali, 359, 80134
Gino Sorbillo is probably the most famous pizzaiolo in Napoli. His family has been in the business for several generations and his name appears on multiple pizzerias around town. This one street alone has at least 4 Sorbillo properties. He’s extremely smart and extremely good at running his restaurants. The food at Presepe is classic Neapolitan fare. This is a good place if you want to get a taste for everything. I think they run dishes from the multiple Sorbillo restaurants to this place because I didn’t see a pizza oven in this restaurant but did see someone running across the street carrying what ended up being my pizza marinara. We sat outside, directly next to the famous Pulcinella statue. Incredible location right out of our collective Neapolitan dining fantasy.
Palazzo Petrucci – P.za S. Domenico Maggiore, 33, 80134
I would never have gone here had it not been for recommendations from Fred Mortati of Orlando Foods. Well, I probably would have gone here anyway but only because I was being shepherded by my friend Luciano Furia on my final night in Naples. Luciano is a photographer who works with pizzerias all over town but he also runs very small private pizza tours through the historic district. He’s an incredible resource and just so happens to live a few meters away from Palazzo Petrucci in Piazza San Domenico. The pizzeria is of the modern type. Owner/pizzaiolo Davide uses a blend of 5 flours (Caputo) and very intentional fermentation and baking methods. I first went for a quick snack of his Pizza Romana Tonda and came back the next night for the Napoletana. I’m so glad I did, because it was a real highlight of the trip. I followed Fred’s recommendation and got the tonno e cippola (tuna and onion) pizza. Sound weird? Don’t be afraid! It’s excellent. I’ll absolutely be back on my next visit.
Franco Gallifuoco Pizzeria – Corso Arnaldo Lucci, 195, 80142
I walked right past this place on my way from the central train station to the hotel so I’m very happy Lucaino brought me there a few days later. Places like these all look alike. Wood-fired oven in the corner, a couple tables, and some nondescript decor. It’s not an ancient classic and it’s not a fancy restaurant. It’s somewhere in between and that’s why I love getting some guidance when visiting a city like this. Francesco makes excellent pizza but his masterpiece is a calzone. He calls it “la grotta” or “the cave” because the shell remains rigid even as you’re eating it. Most calzones deflate and get floppy, but this one does not. I think it’s because he intentionally traps some air inside as he closes the calzone. Then he brushes the top with oil and grates on some grana padano. The result is kind of an exoskeleton that holds its shape. It’s very good. Very much worth a visit.
Lombardi 1892 – Via Foria, 12/14, 80137
I’ve been here before and very much enjoyed it. Lombardi is a classic pizza. Nothing fancy going on in terms of the pizza making side, it’s just the typical local pizza. They’ve been around for a long time, tracing their involvement in pizza to 1892 (even though this restaurant didn’t open until circa 1930). They claim a family connection with the Lombardi’s of New York City, but upon hearing the genealogy from Enrico Lombardi himself I think he’s mistaken. There were quite a few immigrants with the name Gennaro Lombardi in the early 1900s, so his was probably not the one who ended up becoming one of the most famous names in American pizza history. Still, the pizza here is very good and absolutely classic!
Castellano – Viale dei Pini, 25, 80131
Here’s another place I never would have made it to had it not been for Luciano. It’s up into the higher part of Naples away form the historic center. Luca makes pizza in both the classic Neapolitan style (with a puffy crust) as well as the Ruota di Caro (wagon wheel) style. We had the latter and it was probably the best pizza I had on this trip. There’s something magical about the way ingredients come together in the presence of a high flame that makes this so special. I can never put my finger on it but I know it when I taste it. It was surprisingly absent from so many of the pizzas I had in Napels recently but Luca had it. Maybe it’s the combination of tomato and oil or the presence of slightly charred basil. Or maybe it’s the intense char on the crust. Whatever it is, I like it a lot.
Reflections
Things have changed since my first trip to Naples in 2009. I’m sure I’ve changed but the city itself, and its pizza, have changed as well. Naples no longer feels dangerous. There are people outside all the time, eating and drinking and celebrating in a very safe and mature way. Crime is down and tourism is up. I saw several bachelorette party groups, which absolutely shocked me. The cafes in the Spanish quarter were busy at midnight with customers spilling out into the streets. There’s real energy in town and it’s positive!
As far as the pizza, that’s changed too. Some of the old classic spots have faded while the contemporary pizzerias elevate the game. One thing I noticed this time was the presence of electric ovens in all the newer pizzerias. I think they’re experimenting more with various dishes and versions of pizza that don’t necessarily prescribe to the mantra of old style Neapolitan pizza. It’s really cool to see the evolution happening in real time.
Naples continues to be one of the most magical and beautiful cities I’ve visited, and not just because I’m a pizza nerd. But if you’re a pizza nerd, visiting Naples is essential. If you’ve always wanted to check out the pizza action in Naples and need someone to streamline the trip for you, it might be a good idea to get on our email list just in case we decide to host something like that (WINK WINK).
